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Explore Laurel Run Road

Explore Laurel Run Road
By Michael Hermann; Lizard Tracks, Centre Daily Times, Oct. 15, 1998
Note: DCNR has changed the location and management of the gates since this article was published. It may not be possible to drive the length of Laurel Run Road year round. You can always explore it by bicycle, which is a better idea anyway.
Fall weather has arrived in Centre County, and the leaves are spectacular. One of the best ways to see the colors in the forest is by automobile. What follows is a driving tour with short excursions from the car.
Plan on two hours to complete the adventure, maybe more if you're the type who likes to wander.
Automobile touring is a great way to explore the forest. In this drive, we will traverse Rothrock State Forest using Laurel Run Road. This smooth gravel road connects state Route 26 and U.S. Route 322. This drive will use four familiar roads: Atherton Street, Bear Meadows Road, Laurel Run Road and West College Avenue.
Let's begin in downtown State College at College Avenue and Atherton Street, technically known as Routes 26 and 322. Perhaps a stop at one of the many downtown eateries is in order to start the day. Top off the fuel tank and follow South Atherton Street to Boalsburg and continue to Tussey Mountain Ski Area on Bear Meadows Road. As you enter Rothrock State Forest, look for the intersection with Laurel Run Road (dirt) on the right. Follow it up the mountain.
Reminisce for a moment about the origins of the road you're traveling. In many sections, Laurel Run Road shares the same path as the original railroad. The switchbacks are so tight that in one case you must use a turn-around loop. The rail car didn't actually turn around; it used a series of overshoot switchbacks where it could reverse gear and continue the laborious climb. If you look closely at each corner, you can still see the old overshoot track.
Step back a century and picture yourself on a logging rail car, slowly churning uphill on a series of switchbacks in search of new timber. The steam engine howls, and the smells of hot oil and cut timber fill the air. You pull your woolen coat collar around your neck for warmth and hold on tight to the train car.
Back then, the view would be quite different. The mountains would be treeless, having received what was called a lumberjack's shave and leaving behind a landscape of stumps and erosion. The environmentalist movement wasn't an issue; the forest was a needed resource and provided jobs. The railroad pushed deeper into the forest in search of fresh timber.
At the top of the mountain, you can entertain a short hike to a stunning overlook. Park where the Mid-State Trail crosses Laurel Run Road. Walk past the yellow gate, and follow the old road to the crest of the mountain; it's an easy five-minute walk. You'll find a beautiful vista that spills across the valley. On a clear day, the colorful leaves will jump from the opposing ridges, and the crisp fall air will invigorate and refresh.
If you want a longer hike, follow the Mid-State Trail the other direction to the Lookout Tower at Little Flat. This is a mile each way. The first section of trail follows an old railroad bed built of loose rock. If you look closely, you may find a railroad spike or piece of steel left over from the rail era. (Note: Budget an extra hour to walk to the tower and back.)
Continue driving on Laurel Run Road for eight miles, and you'll reach Whipple Dam State Park. As you descend into the valley, a stream appears on the right named Laurel Run (hence Laurel Run Road). This is the headwaters of Whipple Dam. Drive slowly, and keep an eye out for wildlife. Deer are most common but the occasional flock of wild turkeys isn't out of the question. If you stop the car, they often stay within eyesight.
Soon you'll reach Whipple Dam State Park. This is a good opportunity to stretch your legs and walk along the lake shore. There is a beautiful serenity to this lake as fall colors illuminate the banks. The summer crowds are gone, and you can walk the beach or follow the footpath along the banks. Look for birds that frequent the marshy areas on the eastern end. I was startled by a blue heron that suddenly erupted into flight about 20 feet away. It's hard to say which of us was more surprised.
Leaving the park you'll meet state Route 26 (which is essentially West College Avenue). This will return you to State College where the journey began. Be sure to pull off the highway at the top of Pine Grove Mountain at Jo Hays Vista. The view into Nittany Valley is always wonderful from this lofty perch. |