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Mid-State Trail along Tussey Ridge
By Michael Hermann; Lizard Tracks, Centre Daily Times, Oct. 29, 1998
There are days when you just want to take a long hike in the woods. An all-day excursion of epic quality. A memorable hike full of adventure. But not too much adventure -- not too difficult, not too much uphill, not too much bushwhacking. A hike you can tell your friends about. Here is one you will be reminded of all year because the trail is visible from State College. Sort of, anyway.
The trail I'm suggesting is on the highest ridge south of town. It runs across the very top of Tussey Mountain connecting Laurel Run Road with Jo Hays Vista (state Route 26) above Pine Grove Mills. It's a six-mile walk that will take about five hours to complete. What rewards do you receive for this grand ridgetop hike? Views of Nittany Valley and the Allegheny Plateau. You'll see all of State College and on a clear day you'll see the ridges above Black Moshannon. Birds will hover just a few yards above you as they ride thermals so close that you can hear the wind rush across their feathers.
This is a point-to-point hike which necessitates two cars. Start by leaving one above Pine Grove Mills at Jo Hays Vista on state Route 26. Drive the other to the top of Laurel Run Road where the Mid-State Trail crosses. Look for the yellow gate and park nearby. Follow the trail past the gate and look for the orange blazes signifying the Mid-State Trail. The terrain is essentially flat as the ridge maintains an elevation above 2,000 feet. The trail is rocky so wear sturdy boots. You don't have to navigate or do any fancy orienteering: just follow the ridge. The trail is marked with orange or blue blazes.
You'll begin by following the orange blazes that mark the Mid-State Trail. There are small signs that say "VIEW" along the way. Follow them and you'll find an open area that offers an unobstructed vantage point across the valleys. Being on a ridgetop allows views in both directions. There are several of these signs, and, if you have the time, I'd recommend you explore each and every one.
One of these takes you on an adventure to the "Roman Tower" above Shingletown Gap. The true name and origin of this rock structure remains a mystery to me. It was referred to as the Roman Tower when I was introduced to it many years ago. I continue that tradition for better or worse. It is not Roman and it is barely a Tower; but it is unique. The Roman Tower is a large pile of rocks arranged in an orderly fashion. There is an entrance, almost a staircase, that leads to the top deck. From here you get a fantastic view above the trees toward Lemont. It showcases Mount Nittany and is a great photo opportunity.
The next stop is the old power line above Musser Gap. You can celebrate the halfway mark here since you are about three miles from either car. Views extend in both directions along this old clear cut. Young saplings are retaking this open area. The power lines have long since been removed but the original poles are still scattered along the cut. If you search through the dense ferns you may find some old glass insulators.
As you keep hiking along the ridge you'll come to the proverbial fork in the road (er, trail). The Mid-State Trail, with the orange blazes, descends into the valley. The Mid-State Trail was routed lower to find water and flat camping sites in the valley. You may have noticed a lack of camp-friendly sites along the rough ridgetop. Stay on the ridge and follow the blue blazes. This section is called the Jackson Trail and it leads directly to state Route 26 at Jo Hays Vista. The last mile winds through a series of relay towers and small electrical shacks before the highway.
The next time you're in the valley and look up at the ridge you'll remember this hike.
If you don't want to attempt the entire hike, you can simply explore from either end. Walk in for a bit and turn around whenever you feel like it. If you get a late start, especially with the recent time change, remember to bring a flashlight.
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